Kicking your heels in Buenos Aires, with a glass of something cool, leaves swaying above you in the plaza – it’s a great way to spend the day. But you also need to make time for the comic strip walk in Argentina – your inner (or possibly literal) child deserves it!
I came to Argentina en-route to Ushuaia – where I would join a cruise to Antarctica and fulfill a lifelong dream – but I’m always bubbling over with curiosity to explore the capital of any new country, so a stopover was irrestistible.
I’ll take you through the twisted streets of San Telmo, on a hunt for the characters that fill Argentinian kids head – and there’ll be the yummiest ice cream at the end.
What’s not to like?
Buenos Aires’ comic strip walk route
Cover image Mafalda in San Telmo by Beatrice Murch CC-BY-2.0
Get things going from the corner of Avenida Chile and Defensa, where you’ll bear right and find the starting point beside a cafe and Kodak shop. It’s a cheeky bench with Mafalda and two friends inviting you to join them. Look right and you’ll see the whole gang painted along the wall of Chile, so you know who you’re looking out for.
Quite the star isn’t she, Mafalda? Just down the road is her neighbour, playboy Isidoro Cañones (found on the corner of Balcarce and Chile) but she rather outshines him.
I used to love Tom and Jerry as a kid! Catch up with another pair of rascals, one a superhero (check out the snazzy cape!), on the corner of Mexico and Balcarce.
Your last stop was opposite the Moliere Theatre and now look towards the end of the road where you see the restaurant Burmana. Walk one minute and the sculptures of Larguirucho and Super Hijitus are on your left. Look straight over the road and the opposite white building is covered in adorable doodles, including non-super Hijitus.
Forget Bart Simpson! This is Matias, Argentina’s original skateboarder. Find him straight down the street at Balcarce 500 (that’s the street name, followed by house number – so now ya know!).
I think Don Fulgencio was my favourite chance encounter – he’s just such a whimsical guy. Shame about the graffiti, eh? He draws quite a crowd and a lot of tourists like to pose with him. Find him straight down the road at the corner at the corner of Balcarce and Venezuela.
Clemente is a really funny guy – created by the same artist who draws Mafalda. It takes a bit of digging to understand the joke at his spot at Balcarce 500, though. He’s shouting ‘tiren papellitos, muchachos!’ which means ‘throw confetti, guys!’
This is a snide swipe at state control. Local custom involves tossing confetti at sport games, and in the 70s the authorities tried to ban the practice. Naturally, the field was doused in paper, in response.
Those who know me know I’m crazy about all things vintage. But I can’t be the only one who thinks these are the chicest chicas on the walk? They were actually from a series of pin up girls, made into vaguely racey postcards, posters and more during the 50s and 60s. Come admire their style, on the edge of Belgrano and Balcarce.
Still with me? You’re headed for the Plaza Presidente Juan Domingo Peron next, which is a slightly longer three minute walk down straight down the Avenida Belgrano. In the centre of the park are this pair. Recognise the boy Isidorito? Yep, it’s our playboy Isidoro again, and somehow he has the same hairstyle even as a boy.
At the same park, in the south east corner you’ll also spot Argentina’s answer to Garfield, a smiling, bright yellow Gaturro.
Don Nicola has eyes that leave you certain he’s just about to get away with something, don’t you think? Run into him just in front of the Azucena – Villaflor bridge.
The original walk ended here in pretty San Telmo, but it’s now been extended into Puerto Madero, where Negrazón and Chaveta, Diógenes and el linyera, Langostino and Corina and finally La Jirafa are waiting to meet you.
To find these cuties, head over the bridge, walk a short way down the broad main street towards the Tango Monument (well worth a look!) and take the second left onto Manso Juana, then the third left onto Aime Paine.
Where to next?
As my inner child was now awake, I took some tempting detours and uncovered a few more treasures. You’re not ready to go back to the hostel yet, right?
First stop is Buenos Aires’ Instagramable murals, to get a better picture of the scene. Don’t miss the Confederacion Nacional de Beneficiencia at Avenida Paseo Colón 413, which is white and has as many scribbles as your school books did – but they’re actually good.
OK, you deserve a reward. Get tempted into both the delicious flavours and the elegant window displays at Lucciano’s ice cream parlour – which has branches all over the city – by finding the nearest one here. Yes, it’s spoon-lickingly good.
If all that walking has got you in the mood for a souvenir, stop at the San Telmo Market on Bolívar 970. From handbags with Mafalda’s face to every fizzy drink you’ve ever dreamed of and all the quirky ornaments and clothes you could want – it’s all here.
Pin these for your trip and follow this itinerary as you explore!
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