Reykjavik is where every tourist gets off their flight and it might seem a little unlike the Iceland you’ve seen on adverts – a horse trotting through waterfalls, and that kind of thing. But it has it’s own magic, and it’s a beautiful way of getting to know real life for real Icelanders. Whether you’re backpacking in Reykjavik or staying for a longer time, this guide is for you.
Coming alone? Don’t worry, you’ll meet some of the best people you’ve ever encountered here.
This was one of the destinations that I lived in, and loved.
Let me show you.
Getting from Keflavik to central Reykjavik on public transport
The most budget-friendly option is to take the public bus – where you’ll need to pay with local currency in cash, so be prepared. Hop on board Strætó bus number 55 straight into the city for roughly 1600 ISK. I’d suggest getting off at Fjordur where you can change to other local buses.
Don’t panic about making it solo on the bus. All the drivers speak good English and there are diagrams posted on the bus walls that will show you the route and stops.
Where to stay when backpacking or travelling in Reykjavik:
Hostel
Icelandic accommodation is pricey and your wallet will soon be wincing. Hostels are only really in the biggest cities and elsewhere you’ll need to stay in an expensive guesthouse – cha ching.
Travel and hostels go spectacularly well together, so you won’t go wrong with Loft Hostel for its relaxed vibe and overall cool. You definitely need to book well in advance, as it fills up. It’s right in the centre of town – surprisingly close to the Phallic Museum and a very reasonable price at about £50 or $65 per night in peak season.
See what I mean about it being expensive?
The greatest win for me, however was the The Loft Bar where Couchsurfing hang outs happen and the lady behind the bar was happy to help me rent a car and drive around the island for a great rate. Even if you don’t stay, I’d recommend a night in that bar as it’s the perfect way to meet other half-lost, semi-jetlagged travellers.
Camping
For the outdoorsy, or, in my case, the truly broke, there is this option.
I didn’t plan to camp, but simply drove to a shop, bought a cheap tent and pitched up. The Reykjavik Campsite is super central, and you can walk everywhere if you don’t have the bus fare. It was also clean, had a fair amount of free food in the kitchen left by other travellers (bulgar wheat anyone?), Wi-Fi in abundance and a warm lounge area.
All that for 2.400 ISK (roughly £15 or $20) per night is a bargain. Bring your own padlock for the lockers. Also, don’t buy a cheap tent – I didn’t enjoy frantically patching mine with bin bags when it rained!
Homestay or flat share
The best option if you’re staying a long time is to skip the costly short term lets and go straight to local people, to rent a spare room in their homes and see what real life in this country is like.
Read all about my HelpX experience in Iceland.
What to see
Hallgrimskirkja
Church on Hallgrímstorg 101, 101 Reykjavík
Tall and impressive, climb to the very top and the world spreads out beneath you. Stop by early in the day to avoid the queues or come when the church is rehearsing to hear lovely music float around.
The Sun Voyager
Rekagrandi 14, 101 Reykjavík
Best seen at sunset, this statue on the harbour front is pretty damn romantic. It’s highly instagrammable too, so get into position and see if someone will take a snap for you.
Tjörnin
Reykjavik’s central pond is where the locals come to natter and stroll. In the summer, sit beside it and try Iceland’s great ice cream (who’d have thought it’d be so excellent?) or in the winter you can ice skate across the frozen water.
Icelandic Phallological Museum
Laugavegur 116, 105 Reykjavík
Not as playful as you might expect, this museum takes a full look at the downstairs of animals, fish and more through the ages. Unique and genuinely informative.
Viðey and the Imagine Peace Tower
A long abandoned island, easily reached by ferry from the capital is the setting for gorgeous walks, cheeky seabirds and an art installation by Yoko Ono on the theme of peace.
Nauthólsvík
OK, I admit it – though you may already have guessed – I didn’t go to the Blue Lagoon while I lived in Reykjavik. It was just out of my budget. This geothermal beach with its own lagoon is the poor man’s Grindavik (Blue Lagoon) and it blew me away. Free, clean and friendly, bring your swimming costume and dip into a natural bath. If you’re in need of another toasty dip, try this totally free West Iceland thermal pool.
Where to eat
For a unique option? You might be keen to stop off at Kolaportið Fleamarket (Tryggvagötu 19) for the freshest and cheapest portion of Hákarl from one of its stalls. Yes, that’s a bite of fermented shark my travel companion is taking – it’s a once in a lifetime taste.
For lunch on the go? Swing down the central street and you’ll run up against some of the best local fish and chips. In the salty sea air, they’ll taste better than ever before.
For a naughty snack? Though the temperature will never approach what I’d call ‘ice cream weather’ Reykjavik’s ice cream is DELICIOUS. I loved Valdís (Grandagarður, 101 Reykjavík) for its kooky flavours and great service.
For a hot drink and a warm welcome? Café Babalú (22, Skólavörðustígur, 101 Reykjavík) was a winner both for long days freelancing and meeting local friends. Free Wi-Fi, a menu worth getting excited over and a lovely garden for the summer.
Miss home? Reykjavik’s answer to all things touristy is on Laugavegur 30 at the Chuck Norris Bar and Grill. Though not exactly authentic, it does a mean steak and is open late for those Scandinavian Friday nights that end late.
Is it easy to live long term in Reykjavik?
Let’s put it this way: I stayed for two seasons, and it was one of the most incredible spots I’ve ever set foot.
It’s not cheap, but there are plenty of bar jobs and a booming need for tour operators. All those trips around the Golden Circle need guides, so if you have the right experience, I’d say it’s very doable.
Fitting in was also easy peasy, with a big expat group in the capital, great English spoken wherever I went and friendly locals at every corner. Culture shock? Not here.
What’s the weather like and how cold is it really?
Let me answer this with a question, have you seen a bright beaming sun in these photos?
OK, I say this with all the love in the world, but even in the summer, the sky was often a moody pale grey. It felt like home to me, since I’m a Brit, and it is beautiful – but don’t expect the Bahamas.
In spring, think unexpected showers and bring a couple of layers and a light coat. There will often be bright sunshine, but it will still be crisp and chilly.
In the height of summer, think t-shirt and cardigan or jumper with jeans. It will be sunny, but never roasting.
In winter, you will aim to wear everything you own.
Leave all umbrellas behind, people in the city will think you’re crazy if you whip one out. They become useless in the wind, so trade them instead for a fetching waterproof poncho. You’ll blend right in.
Can I see the Northern Lights backpacking in Reykjavik?
Yes, in fact I saw them early and without paying a penny! You can start to see them from late August onwards and you should start checking the Aurora Forecast to see which night is best for them.
Locals are really helpful and if you are out after dark, there will be knots of people looking up at the sky and pointing out the lights to you.
From deep in the city, they will be quite faint, but all you need to see them better is an evening jaunt. Walk to Grótta Island Lighthouse in north west Reykjavik and wait with your camera. If conditions are right, you’ll have the most amazing show in the sky. It’s roughly two hours on foot from the centre of the city, but there are buses that will take you much quicker.
Is it safe to for women to travel alone in Reykjavik?
Yep. Iceland is pretty much legendary for its safety. It’s been so long since they had a murder, they were turning the event into a play while I was there. I can’t say the same of where I’m from, can you? People routinely hitchhike on the island and the midnight sun means that in peak summer, you’ll hardly see darkness anyway. You’re in for a treat!
What have I missed? What else should a solo backpacker or long term traveller try in Reykjavik? What’s your favourite place in the Icelandic capital?
Pinterest pin using Iceland – Peace Tower 41 by Mckay Savage CC-BY
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Hoping to visit Reykjavik’s this year so your budget friendly guide is perfectly timed! The Loft Hostel sounds like the place to stay especially if they can help arrange rents cars. Now I need to start looking for flights…
My sister absolutely loves Iceland and has already been twice. I’m hoping to go and it will make a third visit for her. I didn’t know about the museum and would most likely check that out when I am there 🙂
Haha! “In winter, you will aim to wear everything you own”!! I grew up in Western Australia where it’s never below freezing, and visited Iceland in the Icelandic summer – even THEN I was aiming to wear everything I owned! But despite the cold it was amazing; I only had a few days back in Reykjavik though after driving around the south and west, and I missed some of these recommendations. I must go back!
This is a great guide! I love solo traveling and Reykjavik is still high on my bucket list, so this guide is definitely useful to me! Nice to know that I can see the Northern Lights from late August on. The sunset statue and ice skating in winter on the Tjornin lake sounds like great activities to do.
So how did the financials work out when you were there longterm? How much was your monthy expenses vs. your monthly income from the various jobs you had? And how long was your visa for 90 days? Thanks for all the great tips!
Thanks for the questions, Mike! I’m an EU citizen, so I didn’t need a visa to go backpacking in Reykjavik or even to stay long term in Iceland. You do need a tax number to work for an Icelandic business though, called a TIN. That’s a good question about the budget, I’ll have a look at budgets for this country to see how much it cost.